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Updated: 08/01/08

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Morimoto: The New Art of Japanese Cooking - a review

Morimoto - the new art of japanese cooking reviewed. "Beautiful, sublime, informative but utterly bonkers"

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I'm trying to compile my full list of cook books - it's going to take a while I think! Here are some to be getting on with...

The Food of Spain and Portugal - a review

A stunning overview of the 21 regions of Iberia highlighting the different gastronomic variations in each - written with style and a clear love of the landscape, people and food of the area

Nobody Does It Better: A Review

Nobody Does It Better: Why French Home Cooking Is Still The Best In The World - on the evidence of this passionate and entertaining book, French home cooking is still in pretty fine fettle.

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Take One Ingredient: Seville Orange

posted Monday, 21 January 2008

The Seville (or Bitter) Orange is a strange fruit.  Too sour to eat as one would usually with an orange, its perfume allows it to be used in cooking to make some quite exceptional dishes.  The Seville Orange is used as the grafting stock for a great many orange trees, forming the base tree on which the more familiar sweet oranges grow.

The Seville orange has a very short season - from late December through to early February - meaning we don't get much of a chance to use it.  This inevitably means long evenings in front of the hob on dark winter nights, stirring a great cauldron of boiling marmalade.  It makes the best marmalade - the essential oils found in the skin provide that deep slightly bitter taste that makes marmalade more than just 'orange jam', and the great many pips in the fruit provide much of the natural pectin required to make the marmalade set.

This year, however, I have been determined to do more with the Seville Orange than just make marmalade.  So far, I've made a good orange mayonnaise to have with fried fish, a less succesful orange-butter sauce with baked fish and some really lovely orange and marmalade cakes - recipes to follow.  And, of course, I spent the best part of a day making great quantities of marmalade...

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1. Toni-anne left...
Monday, 21 January 2008 9:30 am

Hmm...I have a jar of marmalade in my fridge - it's been there for three years so you can imagine I won't be emulating you! LOL.


2. Richard Leader left...
Monday, 21 January 2008 9:51 am :: http://www.superfood.blog-city.com/

Well, I'm outraged, Toni-Anne! My marmalade post is to follow soon... but what could be more British than delightful bitter-orange marmalade on toast while perusing the morning paper?? (Well, in my case, while desparately ironing a shirt and making a dash for the train...)


3. Ginger left...
Tuesday, 22 January 2008 12:08 pm

I was all set to make marmalade this year but think I may have accidentally recycled my jam-jar collection during the big post-Christmas clearout :( Looking forward to the cake recipe.


4. Toffeeapple left...
Wednesday, 23 January 2008 4:28 pm

You have time to iron a shirt!? Yuo must get up well before I do! ;-)


5. Richard Leader left...
Thursday, 24 January 2008 9:05 am :: http://www.superfood.blog-city.com/

5.45 is quite a lonely time...


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